Arrival in a West African town involves a European in a number of "formalities" that are neglected at his peril. They imply a curious mixture of self-importance and self-abasement. The average visitor will be amazed that the authorities should care one way or the other about his presence in their fair town. But should he fail to comply with the regulations, he is liable to be "discovered" as a spy or worse. So there is a fairly depressing circuit whereby one's presence is announced, rather as in earlier days Europeans would leave their visiting cards at strategic locations.

Inevitably, the first visit was to the chief of police, armed with all relevant documents.

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